二十多年前,我十几岁的时候住在洛杉矶,去过旧金山。说实话,我对那次旅行几乎没什么印象了。直到成年后,因为工作调动,我才终于有机会以成年人的身份再次体验这座城市。

旧金山行程 - 从艺术宫前往普雷西迪奥高地
从美术宫眺望普雷西迪奥高地

这次去旧金山,我心里其实挺忐忑的。之前看过一些报道,说疫情之后这座城市每况愈下,轻微犯罪率也达到了历史新高。但是,在旧金山待了五天之后,我觉得托尼·贝内特说得没错——我的心真的留在了旧金山。而且,我敢说,旧金山或许是我在美国最喜欢的城市

当然,我必须避开某些区域。走路时我必须格外小心,以免踩到人行道上的粪便。有天晚上,我离开米慎区几个小时后,那里就发生了一起驾车枪击案。但这座城市如此美丽迷人,我情不自禁地爱上了它。

那么,请允许我带您领略我最爱的旧金山风情。

首次游览旧金山的贴士

1. 旧金山地势起伏很大——我觉得光看网上的地图很难体会到这一点,但没错,这座城市确实有很多(陡峭的)高低起伏。我个人很喜欢这种地形,因为拍出来的照片很漂亮,但我知道有些人会希望我提醒一下。所以,如果你打算步行游览(我确实认为步行是体验旧金山的最佳方式),请务必穿上合适的鞋子!

旧金山丘陵地带一条坡度陡峭的街道

2. 旧金山是个早起的城市——大多数商店晚上7点就关门了,餐馆晚上10点就歇业了。请提前做好计划!我听说在这个城市,下午5点或6点吃晚饭是很正常的。

3. 注意加州销售税!在加州,每次购物都要缴纳 8.5% 的销售税。这笔销售税通常不包含在标价中,会在付款时单独收取。例如,假设你看到一个漂亮的钱包标价 30 美元,那么付款时实际价格可能是 32.55 美元。购买时务必将这笔税款考虑在内。

4. 学习美式小费习惯——我知道,美国的小费文化会让每个外国游客都感到困惑。确实很让人摸不着头脑!但是,你也不应该仅仅因为不认同这种社会习俗就少给别人小费。最常见的需要给小费的情况是在餐厅用餐。一般来说,服务一般给15%的小费,服务很好给20%,服务特别好给25%。在食物制作完成但不直接送到你面前的场所,比如快餐店、面包店或甜品店,不需要给小费。但如果你觉得店员的服务特别好,给点小费当然更好。你也不需要给网约车司机小费(不过,给点小费总是没错的),但出租车司机必须给小费。

5. 旧金山安全:避开某些街区并保持警惕——在旧金山,安全问题是一个值得关注的话题。我相信你也从新闻中有所了解。一般来说,你应该避开田德隆区(Tenderloin)的某些区域。通常指的是市场街(Market Street)与第五街至第九街交汇处附近的区域。如果你开车进城,停车时务必确保不要将任何贵重物品留在车内显眼处,并且只停在安全的停车场(而不是路边)。无论在哪个区域,汽车盗窃在旧金山都很常见。

从米申区眺望伯纳尔高地

6. iPhone 用户——同时使用 Apple 地图和 Google 地图! ——在其他任何地方,我通常只用 Google 地图就足够了。但在旧金山,由于它离苹果总部所在地库比蒂诺很近,我发现 Apple 地图有时更准确,体验也更好。我还注意到当地人使用 Apple 地图的频率也高于 Google 地图。

7.购买数据 eSIM 卡——这是每个目的地旅行的必备品,尤其是在美国旅行时更是如此。手机拥有数据流量可以让你轻松查找路线、预订 Uber 以及充值交通卡。eSIM 卡的优势在于:你仍然可以保留原有的 SIM 卡,这意味着你不会完全失去与国内号码的连接。你可以在这里购买美国 eSIM 卡。购买前请务必确认你的手机支持 eSIM。

8. Wise卡在旧金山非常好用——实际上,在美国其他地方也一样。如果你像我一样是国际游客,一定要办一张Wise借记卡。使用Wise卡可以省下境外交易手续费。我在旧金山和纽约的时候从来没用过现金。

我应该在旧金山待多久?

我在旧金山待了五天,感觉还可以待更久。我觉得至少需要三天才能真正感受这座城市的魅力。

如果你把行程安排得满满当当,按照我的行程计划来,或许可以在两天内游览旧金山的大部分主要景点,但时间会很赶。

旧金山的栗树街

什么时候是游览旧金山的最佳时间?

我五月下旬到六月初去了旧金山,我觉得那是一年中最好的时间。天气有时棒极了——晴空万里,阳光灿烂;有时阴天,但也不冷。说实话,天气好坏根本无法预测,你永远不知道“卡尔雾”什么时候会突然降临。

如何从机场 (SFO) 前往旧金山

前往旧金山的最佳方式是飞往旧金山国际机场 (SFO)。从 SFO 出发,您可以尝试以下几种交通方式:

1. 搭乘 Uber 或 Lyft——这当然是进入市区最直接的方式,但也是最贵的。作为对比,我从旧金山国际机场 (SFO) 搭乘 Uber 到渔人码头的费用为 58 美元(含小费)。

2. 搭乘 BART – BART 是旧金山湾区捷运系统的简称。这可能是最佳方式,因为旧金山国际机场 (SFO) 本身就设有 BART 车站。从 SFO 到市区的 BART 票价约为 9.90 美元,到达市区后,您可以继续搭乘旧金山公共交通系统 (MUNI) 前往市区。您可以使用 Clipper 卡支付 BART 车费(详情见下文)。

3. 搭乘加州火车 (Caltrain) – 这是前往旧金山最受欢迎的通勤方式之一。从旧金山国际机场 (SFO) 前往旧金山,您需要先到达圣布鲁诺加州火车站 (San Bruno Caltrain station )(注意不要与圣布鲁诺湾区捷运站 San Bruno BART station 混淆),然后乘坐火车前往旧金山站,票价为 3.25 美元。到达旧金山后,您可以继续搭乘旧金山公共交通系统 (MUNI) 前往旧金山市区。

联合广场的赫斯特大厦

在旧金山出行

正如我之前所说,旧金山是一座非常适合步行的城市,我真心认为步行是探索这座城市的最佳方式。然而,有时您可能无法步行,在这种情况下,旧金山还有几种出行方式可供选择:

  1. 如果您是3-4人出行,使用Uber或Lyft等拼车服务是最佳选择之一。在市区内乘坐Uber的费用并不高。我通常在市区内乘坐Uber,费用仅为10-16美元(不含小费)。
  2. 乘坐旧金山公共交通系统 Muni ——Muni 是旧金山公共交通局 (The San Francisco Municipal Railway)的简称,是旧金山的公共交通系统。Muni 运营着公交线路、Muni Metro 轻轨系统、三条历史悠久的缆车线路和两条历史悠久的有轨电车线路。单程 Muni 票价为 2.5 美元,有效期为 120 分钟。这意味着您支付车费后,可以在 2 小时内无限次乘坐。另一个好消息是——19 岁以下人士可免费乘车(点击此处查看 Muni 票价)。
  3. 历史悠久的缆车——没错,乘坐缆车绝对是一个不错的选择。即使您不打算乘坐公共交通工具,也请务必体验一下缆车。它真的非常迷人!(点击此处了解更多缆车信息
  4. 租车——我不太建议在旧金山开车,因为停车费很贵。而且,汽车被砸的概率也比较高。但如果你一定要开车,尽量租一辆挂加州牌照的车,并且表现得像个本地人。游客(包括来自外州的美国国内游客)更容易成为汽车被砸的目标。
渔人码头

支付公共交通费用:在旧金山湾区使用 MuniMobile 卡还是 Clipper 卡

旧金山有两种交通卡系统:MuniMobileClipper卡。MuniMobile 卡仅限旧金山市区使用,而 Clipper 卡覆盖整个湾区,包括旧金山。

对于那些只计划偶尔乘坐公共交通工具(每天 1-2 次)的人来说,Clipper 卡是单次乘车最方便的方式,因为它允许您通过智能手机付款,而无需任何其他应用程序。

如何使用 Clipper 卡:点击此处查看如何将 Clipper 卡添加到手机的说明。

However, if you are planning to take a lot of public transport and get on cable cars while in SF, you might want to check out MuniMobile because they have visitor passports that will give you unlimited rides on all Muni public transportation including historic streetcars and cable cars. The passes are valid for 1 day (US$13), 3 days (US$31), or 7 days (US$41). This could be worthwhile as the price for a single ride on the cable car is already US$8.00. If you’re only planning to take Muni transports (and no cable cars), they also have a day pass for US$5. View the full list of fares here.

You don’t have to choose between only using MuniMobile or Clipper cards. You could use a mix of both. For example, you could get a 1-day pass on MuniMobile for the days that you’re planning to take the cable car and other transports. On other days when you aren’t taking the cable car anymore, you can use the Clipper card or get the MuniMobile Day Pass.

Taking the Historic Cable Car in San Francisco

Taking the cable car may not be practical for everyday use in San Francisco, but I think this is a cool and novel way to explore the city! You should try it at least once even if you’re not planning to take public transportation.

Here’s what you need to know about taking the cable car:

Powell & Mason Cable Car

Fare – A single, one-way cable car ride costs US$8 and it doesn’t allow you to hop on/off, so as much as possible you’ll want to ride the entire route. If you’re planning on taking the cable car, you might want to look into the visitor passes that are available through MuniMobile, which will allow unlimited rides on the cable car in case you do want to ride it multiple times a day.

Timing – The cable car service starts at 7 AM, but I don’t recommend going THAT early because most other attractions are open only from 9:30 AM onward. I think 9 AM is the perfect time if you’re up for an early start. Unless, you’re planning to go for early morning hiking or walking by the beach which is open 24/7.

Historic Cable Car

Routes – Usually, the starting point is from Union Square at Powell St & Market St, and you would likely have to queue for it unless you’re there early.

There are two routes you can take from Union Square to Fisherman’s Wharf:

  • Powell-Hyde – Drops you off near Ghirardelli Square (Route Map)
  • Powell-Mason – Drops you off near Pier 39 at the Powell/Mason Cable Car Turnaround (Route Map)

It doesn’t matter which one you take. The routes are pretty similar and endpoints are pretty close together.

Another option is to take the cable car down from Fisherman’s Wharf to Union Square. This is the lesser-popular way, and you might not have to line up to get on the cable car, as opposed to if you take it from Union Square to Fisherman’s Wharf.

The cable car turnaround point at Fisherman’s Wharf was so empty!

Another lesser-popular route is the California Cable car, which takes you from east to west. Find out more about California cable cars here.

Lastly, if you’re interested in how the cable car works and its history in San Francisco, you should make sure to stop by the San Francisco Cable Car Museum. It’s free of charge! This museum gives you an overview of the history of the cable cars in San Francisco, how the cable cars work, as well as a view of the actual cable that runs the cable cars around the city. I highly recommend it.

Neighborhoods / Districts in San Francisco

San Francisco is not a big city, but each of its districts has its own personality. I’ll expand more on each neighborhood in the itinerary below, but here are a few notable districts you’ll want to know about as a visitor:

Union Square – This is the downtown area of San Francisco. Before the pandemic, this was where most people go to work and shop.

Union Square district in San Francisco

SoMa – Short for “South of Market”. It’s an extension of Union Square and where many tech companies are headquartered.

Marina – The area northwest of the city. It’s considered a nice neighborhood, and it’s where some tourist attractions are located, such as the Palace of Fine Arts and Crissy Field. There are also nice neighborhoods and shops on Union Street.

Haight-Ashbury – A super cool and colorful neighborhood, channeling the 1960s hippie culture. This was my favorite neighborhood in San Francisco out of all the ones I visited.

Fisherman’s Wharf – A picturesque district. Fisherman’s Wharf is yet another district with plenty of touristy things to do: Pier 39 and Ghirardelli Square to name a few.

Mission District – The Latino central of San Francisco, the Mission District is the most vibrant, colorful, and exciting neighborhood in the city. There is so much to do at Mission that I dedicated one of my itinerary days entirely to Mission, and an entire section just for food at Mission, which was superb.

Castro – Although the whole of San Francisco is supportive of LGBTQ these days, Castro is where it all started. Not only is it the first LGBTQ neighborhood in SF, it’s the one of the first of such neighborhood in the whole of the states.

Tenderloin – Not everything about the district is bad, but Tenderloin has a seedy reputation. You can definitely still find interesting things to do here, but it’s wise to be aware of what you’re getting into before you go to the Tenderloin district. As a visitor, I recommend to do your best to stay away.

Where to stay in San Francisco

I stayed at Kimpton Alton at Fisherman’s Wharf, a new hotel that had just opened in 2021. I booked this hotel because it has great reviews. After 3 nights of staying here, I can definitely corroborate those positive reviews. I loved my stay at Kimpton Alton!

Initially, I was looking at hotels in Union Square since that seems to be where most hotels and shops are. But we decided against it since the group I was traveling with wanted a quiet and safe area.